Heaters for the walls of a wooden house - choose, fasten, enjoy
How to properly insulate the walls in a wooden house, we will analyze in detail today. After all, this is both the comfort of the room and the extension of the life of the wood.
How to insulate the walls in a wooden house largely depends on the structure itself and the materials used. Indeed, at first glance, a simple task should be carried out according to certain rules, and much will have to be considered here. On the video in this article and photo you can find the additional information you need to help you do everything right.
The content of the article
Internal insulation of a wooden structure
Wall insulation for a wooden house is attached in several stages, each of which is important. After all, if the technology is not followed, the final result will be negative. The instruction outlined below describes the entire progress of work on the items.
Preparation for work
Before starting work, it is necessary to take measurements and calculate the material. And also, it is necessary to make calculations for the further selection of insulation material, taking into account, inter alia, its properties (thermal conductivity). Do not forget that in such works, membranes are used (vapor insulating and waterproofing).
When calculating the set:
- Dew point output. This is one of the most important points in this type of work. The explanation is very simple - how much, as a result, it will be humid in the room, it directly depends on this, even in cases of high-quality material, and well-executed work. It takes into account the location of the membranes, and their properties (they may differ from different manufacturers), and of course the properties of the insulation (density, resistance to wetting).
- The calculation of the total area of the room, given that it will decrease. It may not be a comparison (an increase in slopes, but if there is a furnace, the safe distance will change, which is unacceptable between the wall and the furnace, for fire safety).
Caution: The need for work to establish the dew point is not discussed. This is an inseparable part, providing, ultimately, the meaning of the whole work. You need to understand - the humidity of the room depends on the location of the dew point, and humidity is rotting, smell, in the end - premature decay.
Choose the right material
The internal thermal insulation of a wooden wall can be done with many materials, they are excellent in their characteristics and installation methods. You just need to make the right choice.
Let's determine what are the necessary requirements for the quality and properties of insulation:
How to insulate the wooden walls of the house will largely depend on the chosen material. This is interconnected, since the method and method depends on the type of material.
Of the possible methods used indoors - use:
Mineral wool Use of mineral wool | It happens in plates and rolled, various density. In fact, the difference in application is almost nonexistent. Any of these materials implies a closed type of application, that is, after installation, it must be closed (finishing material in the form of - plates, sheets, boards and battens). Such a heater does not burn, is not toxic, has low thermal conductivity.But he is afraid of moisture, which means that it is necessary to use insulating membranes (insulating films). |
Polyfoam plates (expanded polystyrene) Foam application | They are not recommended for use inside the living room, due to possible toxic release (hydrogen cyanide, styrenes, etc.). The use of extruded polystyrene foam is possible (seeHow is wall polystyrene insulation), but such material is also designed for installation with subsequent closing. |
Glass wool Glass wool application | Relatively not expensive material, a little more thermal conductivity than mineral wool (you need a thicker layer). There is a special option, for internal work, and with the mandatory use of films, for shelter. At work, it is also necessary to observe safety measures (protect the respiratory tract from small particles, use protective equipment). After laying, it is necessary to close. |
Isolet Application of isolate | This material is environmentally friendly, it consists of flax fibers and wood shavings.
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Polyurethane foam The use of polyurethane foam | It is used using special equipment, it does not burn itself, but at high temperatures, toxic substances are released.
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Sealing gaps, preparing the surface for insulation
The insulation for the walls of a wooden house must be airtight, otherwise heat loss cannot be avoided. Indeed, since the construction of the building, during its operation, the tree dries up, the house "shrinks", the constant movement of materials. As a result, cracks and cracks form, which must be repaired to stop the loss of heat.
Joints between logs (or timber) - caulk. This is done, with accessible material, or with the same thing that was done earlier (tow, jute, sealant). As a result, heat loss must be stopped.
Attention: Do not hope that the house is relatively not old (or new), cracks can occur throughout the "life" of the building. It is necessary to check the condition of the wall (plywood, “lining”, will not solve the problem with cracks).
Wood treatment with a composition that prevents burning and decay
We must not forget about fire safety. To prevent possible fire, special formulations exist.
- These are liquids, possibly combining both an antifungal and fire-fighting composition. They process it with both a wooden wall and the construction of the fence. Such a composition is selected, taking into account the oldness of the treated surface.
- It is possible to cover the timber with liquid in any available way. For example - paint with a brush or roller. If possible, it is possible and a spray for paints. After that, it is necessary to dry the processed bars, laying them out exactly, on the “spans”, pressing them on top with something heavy (boards, other building materials).
Insulation ventilation
Insulation of the wooden wall from the inside is done with mandatory ventilation passages. The tree must breathe.
- Given that all the slots are closed, the free circulation of air masses ceases, which ultimately leads to "perspiration". You can avoid this in a tricky way by arranging a ventilation “duct” between the wall and the steam with an insulating film. This is done this way - not the wall, thin slats (2-2.5 mm) are attached, then, on them, a pair of insulation is stretched. Thus, a "vent" for air is formed. If the house is built up their "round" - the slats are not needed.
- An isolation vapor membrane is required to be installed when using materials that easily absorb moisture (glass wool, basalt). Mounted with a stapler, on, slats nailed to the wall. The film is attached to a whip of 10 cm. The joints are glued with double-sided tape. In the event that the material is water-repellent (extruded polystyrene foam), a membrane is not required.
Caution: Thermal insulation can be considered good, subject to ventilation. This, an important element is necessary, because - other options are excluded by sealing cracks and cracks.
Fixing the lathing and insulation
How can we insulate wooden walls now we will understand in stages. After all, preparations have already been made for the conduct of work and all materials have been acquired. All work is done in the following order.
Crate
The design of thermal insulation of wooden walls involves the installation of crates.
It can be made of two materials:
Wooden Wooden crate | The wooden grill is easy to install. And material fastening is much easier, everything can be done there yourself without problems. You can easily fit it, because it is cut with a simple saw on a tree.
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Metal Metal crate | Metal for these purposes is coated with galvanization, so for external insulation this will be the best option. After all, he is not afraid of moisture. The negative part is the inconvenience of fastening. It will be much more difficult to adjust the crate in hard-to-reach places. And its price will be higher from the tree. |
So:
- The fence is mounted vertically, the distance between the bars is done depending on the insulation material. For example - soft material (glass wool, mineral wool) - the distance is made smaller so that the insulation "sits" tightly, but at the same time, does not crumple during installation.
- Such material as (from boards, extruded polystyrene foam) does not require a decrease in the gap, but it is laid without gaps. The crate itself is made from a bar of 50x50 mm.
Attention: In the event that a ventilation rail has been ramped up, the beam is mounted directly on them, ensuring the preservation of the ventilation space.
- A wooden beam, in fact, also plays the role of insulation, which is why it is most often used, however, when planning, in the future, drywall finish, it is permissible to fix the steel profile (on suspensions). In this case, the insulation material is laid under the profile.
- Insulating the floor and ceiling, the principle remains the same, but when planning such work, you need an insulation film, put it on a whip of 10-15 cm (on the floor and ceiling), so that in the future, connect to the film of the ceiling and floor. On the floor, the crate plays the role of a lag, on which, then, the floor itself is attached, so the thickness of the beam, and the step, is largely determined by this.
Laying insulation material
With a maintained distance, between the boards, the insulation "becomes" tight, usually more strengthening is not required. But at work, it is much more convenient when everything is held securely. Especially if the work is carried out with a ceiling.
Insulation fitting We make the material fit to the desired size | The insulation must lie tightly in the crate and not be deformed, otherwise it will lose its properties. You fasten the timber according to the width of the insulation. In places not standard, it must be cut to the desired size. |
Insulation Proper installation of insulation | Laying is done in panels. First you need to try them on and only then lay them down. Never attach immediately. |
Insulation mount We carry out fastening | Mounting is done using plastic parachutes. They should fit snugly into the hole. |
- It is recommended to further strengthen the material in the middle, by one self-tapping screw (special, with a large hat). In cases where polystyrene is used, all remaining gaps are compensated with mounting foam (preferably on a wet surface).
- The rolled version of the insulation is fixed at the top, then, gradually going down to the bottom, it is attached directly to the wall, at a distance of 1 meter. One-piece material is used, all “cut-offs" are put into refinement (termination, preferences).
Finish insulation
After the installation of the insulation is completed, it is covered with a vapor barrier film. This is done on all types of insulation, with the exception of polystyrene. Very carefully, you should study the purchased insulation.
It works in one direction (there steam and moisture passes, back - no). Different manufacturers have different side markings (red strip, rough side, mesh screening).
- It is important not to confuse. To do this, you need to understand the principle of operation, or remember - it is necessary, in this case, to ensure that the moisture from the insulation enters the room, then it is equalized with the humidity of the room, thereby eliminating the temperature drop, which means the appearance of condensation. It is attached, similar to the one on the wall, with the help of a stapler, from top to bottom, 10 cm overlap. The joints are necessarily glued with double-sided tape.
- It is impossible to allow contact with the insulation; therefore, sometimes it is necessary to correct it so that it does not protrude beyond the edges of the crate and does not touch the film. This design is suitable for almost any finishing materials. Whether it is drywall, or panels, “lining”, or just plywood sheets. The difference is not big, in the location of the crate (horizontally or vertically). This point needs to be considered when planning.
You can undoubtedly insulate the wall in the apartment with a tree, you just ate this lining, then its thickness will still not allow you to make a decent insulation. Therefore, it is better to use other materials as a heater.
