How to finish the windowsill and slopes
Replaced the old windows with modern plastic double-glazed windows, and there was a need to work to restore the destroyed slopes and establish a removed window sill. The assembly seam curls with foam, which was used when installing the window blocks.
It's just scary to look at the window sill hole.
The content of the article
Two faithful companions slope and window sill
At glazed balconies necessarily finishing slopes and window sills, and it has its own nuances and requirements. The lined opening of the slopes and the windowsill should not be destroyed and subjected to deformation due to freezing and getting wet.
Qualitatively performed work on facing the slopes and installing the windowsill is a guarantee that the slopes do not crack, do not exfoliate, condensation does not appear on them, and the thermal insulation properties of the structure increase. There are three main ways of decorating window openings that are used in this work with your own hands - finishing sandwich panels made of PVC, wall, hollow, plastic panels and lining with moisture-proof drywall.
Plastic window sill - countertop
The window sill gives the finished look to the window opening. The hole between the supporting wall and the window sill is filled with mounting foam, the excess of which, after drying, is cut off and putty.
Quality, durability and a harmonious combination with a plastic window ensured the popularity of plastic window sills. Finishing the plastic windowsill begins with the preparatory work, if you need to save money and perform the operations yourself, then this instruction and watching the video can provide the necessary assistance.
So:
- The window opening is measured and the required amount of materials, consumables is determined. On a large window, longer than 3 m, additional parts are required to connect plastic surfaces.
- The location of the heating battery, its indent from the surface of the wall and from the window, is subject to mandatory accounting.
Attention: According to the standards, at least 50 cm is allocated from the outside of the radiator to the ledge of the window sill on the wall.
Materials and installation
High-quality plastic finish of all types of window sills is ensured by a competent selection of consumables and design basis:
- Silicone sealant or mounting adhesive, the base must be soluble.
- Polyurethane-based construction adhesive with a primer under it.
- Special structural glue.
- Two-component foam.
Recommendations for their use and application are indicated on the packaging, the general requirement of manufacturers is a room temperature of at least 18ᵒ С.
To prepare wooden supports of a certain thickness, on which the window sill is installed, the following manipulations are performed: the plastic panel of the window sill is applied strictly parallel to the bottom of the window, the distance from the base to the bottom of the canvas is measured. All sizes are marked on the surface of the plastic strip, and the future window sill is cut out with an electric jigsaw.
A plastic window sill is installed in a special groove at the bottom of the window.
The level exposes the surface under which the prepared wooden supports are placed, after a certain step. They give the window sill design stiffness during operation.
Window sill installation is complete.
The lower part is foamed with polyurethane foam in a certain order:
- First, the junction of the production profile is closed, so as not to get a "bridge of cold."
- Each wooden support is processed, for the best fixing and fixing.
- The outer joint of the wall with the windowsill is foamed last.
- A load is placed evenly on it, the window sill stands and dries for a day.
- He is then ready for the final finishing work with a white silicone sealant.
Slopes are done quickly and correctly
Long window service is ensured by the observance of three basic conditions:
- Making windows from quality materials.
- Compliance with window installation technology and technically competent installation.
- Slope finishes taking into account local weather conditions and temperature differences.
The plastic window, replacing the wooden one, goes to a maximum depth of 70 mm, and although its characteristics are superior to the wooden ones, it is necessary to comply with the required conditions when decorating slopes, which not everyone knows, but can fulfill so that they do not get rid of mold and damp.
The first slope is the external slope. It reliably protects polyurethane foam, steam and waterproofing materials from weathering.
The most common is plastering with the only negative - the duration of the work. The slopes will be ready in 2-3 days and this is the minimum time with strict adherence to the technology.
The plaster is applied in several layers, the first are made of heat-insulating mixtures and each layer requires complete drying. The last layer, finishing, is made of ordinary plaster mix.
The finished surface is ground and painted.
Plastic slopes belong to the second option of finishing and cost a little more than plaster. Plastic strips are available in various shapes, vary in composition and colors, their installation takes a minimum of time and you can choose the material to your liking.
The interior decoration of window sills and slopes has a more varied choice, but we immediately discard the option with plaster as dirty, long, wet and cold, although its price is “budgetary”.
Finishing with plastic slopes looks very nice. The material is in harmony with the window, has sufficient strength, relatively inexpensive, light in weight and in operation the panels do not cause problems.
Caution: To prevent damage, keep protective films on the window and window sill until the installation is completed.
Installation of plastic slopes is facilitated by auxiliary materials and is carried out in several stages, the photo shows the finished work.
So:
- The surface of the slopes is being prepared. Excess foam is removed, the surface is cleaned of excess objects.
- The window profile is measured along the inner perimeter, the start profile is measured and cut. Installation of the start profile is in progress.
A U-shaped strip is fixed along the edge of the window profile on semi-cylindrical self-tapping screws with a drill after 20 cm. - A 20 x 40 mm wooden rail is mounted around the perimeter of the slopes for mounting the battens. The outer edge of the strip (rail) should coincide with the edge of the wall adjacent to the window opening.
Fasteners are made with dowels and nails after 40 cm. The bar is used to stiffen the plastic slope and serves as the basis for the plastic strip.
You can not achieve tight joining of wooden planks when connecting. Slopes will look perfect if the slats are fixed strictly vertically in level.
The necessary vertical can be achieved by using wooden blocks for lining. - The upper slope panel is mounted, pre-cut and inserted at one end into the groove of the starting profile and fastened with screws to the crate with the other edge.
- Side panels are installed similarly to the top panel and are also attached to the crate.
- The casing casing completes the work. It is cut from the PVC F-profile by external window measurements.
In places of contact with the screws, cuts are made and unnecessary pieces of plastic are removed. The F-profile fits tightly into the panel. - Seams are treated with white sealant to prevent dust and moisture. Surplus is carefully removed.
Caution: The F-shaped strip must only be fastened to the inside.
The window is ready completely, it is a pity that the window sills are narrowish.
However, amateur craftsmen worked on this problem and solved it with the help of the continuation of the windowsill, smoothly turning into a countertop or table. About this in another article.
