Interior decoration of a wooden house with drywall: warm walls - a cozy home

Gusevsky Andrey Anatolyevich

Drywall interior of a wooden house

The advantages of drywall as a structural material can not be overestimated. It would seem that nothing remarkable, not having any decorative material. And, nevertheless, with its help you can create an interesting and even exclusive interior - such as, for example, in the photo above.

For those who prefer to do everything in their home with their own hands, nothing is impossible. And we will try to help visitors to our site understand not only the basics of working with drywall, but also offer some excellent design examples for a wooden house.

Sheathing and insulation of walls

To say that creating a masterpiece from drywall is easy and simple is to tell a lie. Of course, this requires certain knowledge, skills, as well as a creative approach, without which it is difficult to come up with something interesting. Since the walls of a wooden house will be lined, it is worth considering how to combine drywall lining with supporting structures.

So:

• If normal quality building wood was used, fragments left without cladding are sanded and tinted. It looks very nice on the walls, and especially on the ceiling. In the title picture you see a great example of such a design.

Ceiling support structures in combination with drywall

• If your intention does not include the implementation of zoning and decorative structures made of drywall, and you just need to make the casing with insulation, you can always do it yourself. But before starting practical work, you need to stock up on some theoretical knowledge.

Our instructions are designed to help you figure out what's what, but let's start with the simplest option. And this is a covering with insulation.

Layered Structure

Plasterboard sheets can be mounted on glue and on the frame (see Gypsum board cladding: frame cladding and adhesive alignment) The first option for facing a wooden house is definitely not suitable - especially if you need to make insulation. So, you have to sheathe ceilings and walls on the crate.

• In addition to GKL sheets, you will need materials from which this same crate is mounted. It can be bars, and aluminum profiles, or both at once. It depends on the curvature of the walls, and on the type of insulation, and on the size of the insulating material.

The scheme of the inner lining with insulation of wooden walls

• First of all, you must clearly understand what the general structure of the structure is. Then it will be easier for you to sort out what and how much you need to purchase, and calculate what the price of the question will be. The bars are a material ideally suitable for installation on wooden walls, but if uncalibrated wood is used in their construction, there will be too many irregularities on the surface that are difficult to level with linings.

In such a situation, it is better to take a metal profile. It is attached to the wall with direct suspensions and allows you to bring out walls of any curvature into a single plane.

In principle, bars can also be attached to suspensions, but this is not very practiced among professionals. Most often, timber is still used for cladding straight sections, but in principle there are no semicircular walls in a wooden house.

Material Selection Criteria

So, we present in the form of a table those types of materials that will be needed for lining with insulation:

Variety of material	Dimensions
Drywall Wall	Each manufacturer has its own size range. The sheet size can be both 2000 * 600 mm, and 3000 * 1200 mm. But in most cases, a standard size is used, which is standard not only for domestic but also for imported material: 2500 * 1200 mm. Here the main thing is not the length and width of the sheets, but their thickness, which should be no less than 12.5 mm when wall sheathing. Drywall 9 mm thick is used only for the filing of ceilings and the creation of ceiling-wall structures that have a purely decorative character.
Lathing beam	The cross-sectional size of the beam used to install the frame is selected, depending on the thickness of the insulating material. The step between the belts also depends on the size of the insulation, only in this case, its width plays a role. The cross section of the bars can be: 30 * 40 mm; 40 * 40 mm or 40 * 50 mm. A crate for insulation is being built from them, but under a drywall, a counter crate is installed from a 25 * 40 mm rail, or a profile is already used. This is the case when both wood and metal profiles are used to equip the substructure.
Wind-proofing film	As walls of a wooden house are not hermetic, such as masonry, then, first of all, it is necessary to equip a barrier to moisture and drafts. For this purpose, rolled material called a hydro-waterproofing membrane is used. In this multi-layer construction, wind protection will be the first layer. Moreover, it is mounted regardless of whether such work was performed outside. It can be mounted to the wall with nails or a construction stapler.
Adhesive tape for gluing the joints of membranes	After the windshield is installed, the edges of the canvases laid with a small overlap are glued with a special waterproofing tape, which you see in the photo above.
Sealing tape	During the installation of the crate, in those places where it adjoins perpendicular walls or partitions, under the bars you need to put a sealing tape. This will also be a barrier to drafts. The tape is placed in a shtroba specially cut in the place where the block adjoins the transverse wall. If you carefully look at the diagram above the table, you will immediately understand what was said here.
Roll insulation with foil	As a heater for walls, you can use both rolled and plate materials. We gave as an example one of the options that has a foil coating. This layer eliminates the need to install a vapor barrier film on top of the insulation. When laying the material in the structure, it should be facing with foil inside the room.

Apart from nails and self-tapping screws, this is a complete set of consumables needed directly for sheathing. But given that the drywall surface has yet to be prepared for the finish, you will need another primer (see Why do we need a primer: technological nuances of finishing work), putty, and serpyanka tape, which will be discussed in more detail below.

With their help, sealing of fasteners and joints between sheets is performed, or, if necessary, the surface is plastered over the entire area.

Tool list

The set of tools you need to work will depend on the degree of complexity of the drywall constructions. In any case, for cutting and smoothing the edges you need a peeling and edge planer; drywall knife; wide and narrow spatulas. To cut holes, for example, under a socket, you need a special hacksaw or a round nozzle on the drill, which is called the "crown".

Interior with false ceiling and zoning partition

If you want to independently plan the space of the house using plasterboard partitions, make some interesting niche or install a suspended ceiling, then you will also need special tools to work with the metal profile: metal scissors and a cutter. Along with general building tools, it’s nice to have a circular saw as well.

Features of the installation of GKL

The installation of drywall sheets should begin already after the installation of the substructure is fully completed. Since the first crate is designed for the installation of insulation and is carried out in accordance with its overall dimensions, the distance between the elements of the counter-lattice is made so that it is convenient to fix the gypsum board.

So:

• It should be decided in advance how the sheet will be located during installation, because its length is double the width. Experts often prefer to do this so that the long side fits along the height of the wall, because the sheet size is often enough to cover it from floor to ceiling. In extreme cases, small strips are mounted on top.

Fixing plasterboard sheets to the crate

• Elements of the first and second crates are usually mounted perpendicular to each other. In this case, the bars under the insulation are placed horizontally, and the rails on which the drywall will rest, are installed vertically. They fix the remote crate not to the bars that hold the insulation, but to the base base, using the long 4.8 * 130 mm screws that you see below.
• The step between the slats should be no more than 60 cm, which allows you to fix the sheet in width at least in three places. The length of the fastening is made more often - after 22-25 cm across each support belt. Where cut-off fragments have to be inserted, transverse belts are also installed so that fastenings can be made along the entire perimeter.

Wood screws for attaching the remote crate to the base

• It must be borne in mind that in order to avoid the appearance of cracks on the lined surface, the attachment of adjacent sheets is made with a slight displacement. And yet, making fasteners, it is very important not to overdo it, screwing the self-tapping screw.

This should be done without effort, so that its head does not go deep into the thickness of the sheet, while tearing the cardboard shell. If everything happened just like that, you should unscrew the fasteners and, having retreated a couple of centimeters, carry out a new fastening.

Preparation of the veneered surface for finishing

Properly sheathed walls with drywall - this is still half the battle. It is also necessary to prepare its surface for further decoration, and, of course, come up with an acceptable design option.

The first step is to seal the joints of the sheets and the points of their attachment to the crate. For this we need a putty mixture specially designed for gypsum plaster.

• As for the reinforcing tape, the appearance of the lining and the strength of the seam depend on its quality. Many craftsmen do not favor fiberglass tape, and argue that the paper version is much more reliable. In any case, it forms internal corners better. To protect the external corners, a conventional aluminum perforated plaster profile is used.

Reinforcing tape for GKL paper

• When putty of the same manufacturer is used in the work as gypsum board, this ensures maximum adhesion of materials and you can do without priming the joints. Note that the opinions of experts on this subject were divided. Many of them believe that you need to be primed in any case.
• A solid sheet in most cases has already prepared edges. To provide the same preparation when cutting it into separate fragments, use a special tool. First, a peeling plane is used, which aligns and smoothes the face of the gypsum plaster, and then, a chamfer with a slope of 45 degrees is cut with an edge plane.

Joint termination process

• The beveled walls of the groove formed between the two ends of the gypsum plaster provide a place to fill with putty and allow you to create a seam of the proper thickness (see Putty of drywall joints - how to do it) Otherwise, it will turn out thin and very fragile. After laying the mixture in the recesses between the sheets, the excess is removed with a spatula, and then, without waiting for the putty to set, glue the seam with a sickle, pressing it well into the seam.
• The heads of the self-tapping screws also need to be repaired, and if at the same time the working blade of the spatula clings to the self-tapping screw, then it is not twisted. For the convenience of work and the elimination of such defects, the craftsmen use a spatula, on the handle of which a screwdriver is located - it is very convenient and saves time. The second, thinner layer of putty mixture is not applied immediately, but after a few hours. More often the next day.
• But what to do after it dries depends on the type of finish that you will produce next. If it is pasting with rolled materials, the putty seams can simply be cleaned and sanded, and the surface of the drywall treated with a primer.

Wall coverings for plasterboard walls

• In any case, if the wallpaper is dense, with a relief or a large pattern, the joints of the drywall sheets under them will not stand out. You just need to take a pigmented primer under the wallpaper, which will mask the colored surface of the GCR. In this regard, we consider it necessary to draw your attention to one very important nuance.

If after some time you need to remove the boring wallpaper, then they will be torn off together with the cardboard shell of the sheet. So, if you do not want to redo the lining later, it is better to immediately plaster the surface of the drywall completely. This will make it possible to update the interior as often as desired.

Interior of a wooden house with plasterboard painting

About preparation for painting and say nothing. In order for the decorative finish to be of high quality, the surface of the walls and ceilings must be perfectly smooth.

Look at the video master classes from professionals and learn to do everything yourself. With a great desire, the interior of your house will turn out no worse than the option in the picture above as a sample.