How is plastering slopes

Gusevsky Andrey Anatolyevich

Plastering do-it-yourself slopes video

How to plaster the slope without resorting to the help of specialists, today we consider in different versions. To do this, you need to be careful and attentive, to buy the goods necessary for the work.

You can also watch the video in this article, where you will understand everything in more detail. An instruction on the rules for choosing a mixture will be offered and a sequence of work will be determined.

We make slopes

For the basic elements when creating a template, we will take a window frame and a rule (with emphasis on "and"), set in advance on the level. The rule must perform 2 functional actions - play the role of a beacon and set a clear limitation of the surface of the slope to obtain a smooth external angle.

Attention: The rules for plastering slopes are the same for both windows and doors. It does not matter. The execution of the work is exactly the same.

Choose material

First of all, we determine what to plaster the slopes. First of all, it depends on the environment of your stay. Plaster for slopes can be done both indoors and outdoors.

So the first division is precisely on this basis:

Procedure for a 2 x 1.4 m Window

If the slope plaster is carried out in a room with plastered walls, this facilitates the marking for further work. A video on how to plaster slopes will show the most common opening size.

So:

• Attach a triangle to the window plane at the supposed junction with the slope, taking into account the width of the plaster layer, and draw a line along the windowsill at a right angle to the window line. If the window sill has not yet been installed, it must be temporarily replaced with an even piece of board or plywood.
• Perform the same manipulations with the other side of the window - you get 2 parallel segments.
• Now, using a square, draw a line to extend the wall along the entire window sill - you get 2 points of intersection with the first segments on the windowsill.
• From the obtained intersection points to the walls, set aside 1.5-2 cm and connect the new points with the initial ones. These segments will serve as a guide when creating the template.
• Carefully cut the adhesive tape pasted on the windowsill along the marking lines and remove the part that will be under the plaster.

Surface preparation

First of all, we need to prepare the base. There should be a completely empty, uncovered plane.

We clean the plane

• If there is plaster on the wall, then it is removed with a hammer and a chisel;
• After that makes alignment, more about that below;
• After this, a layer of soil is applied. This must be done, then the adhesion of the surfaces will be the highest quality.

The choice of leveling mixture

The alignment of the slopes with plaster is done in the case when the layer of applying the solution is more than two cm.

In addition to plaster, to level the slopes, you will need putty, which you need to correctly choose:

Attention: Finishing plastering of slopes is done after leveling. For this, start should be used. Finishing is done by finish.

Plaster slopes do-it-yourself video leveling

• To work with external slopes, you need to order goods from the line of frost-resistant and water-resistant mixtures, any of these compounds facade putty;
• The composition of the mixture for internal work should correspond to the microclimate of the operating room - in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms, kitchens, saunas) it is better to use polymer or cement putty, in dry ones - lime-gypsum or gypsum;
• For the final sealing of corners after installing protective profiles, the most suitable material will be finishing putty;

We must not forget about the selection of a suitable primer, which will prepare the foundation for further work. Well, if antifungal additives are present in the primer, this will prevent mold.

Work with a rule

For vertical installation of the rule, you can use different methods, the simplest of which is to put it on the finished window sill, fixing it on a mortar for plaster. In the absence of a window sill, you need to at least screw a self-tapping screw into the wall at its level, this will be the lowest point of support.

• Apply the rule to the wall, set it vertically using a level, and fill the area between it and the slope with the solution.
• Check verticality using the laser level. Make sure that the solution turns out to be sufficiently dense, otherwise the rule "drains" to the side after the solution.
• Now you can start cutting out the template for plaster from plywood. The main requirement is the matching of its working plane with landmark lines between the frame and the rule.
• As soon as the mortar mixture has hardened under the rule, it is time to tackle the plaster. First, the surface of the slopes must be treated with a primer. Then put the solution with a reserve on the slopes with a spatula, not reaching about 10 cm to the edges below and above. After that, moving the template from the bottom up remove a layer of excess plaster.
• To obtain a smooth surface, it is recommended to work with the template not in pulling but in zigzag movements (left and right), and periodically remove the solution adhering to the surface and again stretch the template, starting from the bottom.
• When most of the excess solution will be removed, several more times (at least three) should be followed by a template along the slope from top to bottom with direct movements, and then repeat the same steps, starting the movement from above. This is done to finally remove excess solution, which after the first treatments can be quite significant.
• The areas at the top and bottom where it was impossible to work with the template will fill up after the solution has hardened on the main plane, usually this takes about two hours. To remove excess solution from such hard-to-reach areas, a rule crop is usually used. This improvised tool is difficult to get beyond the plane of the frame, but minor gaps can be repaired later using a trowel or spatula.

Removal of the rules

When the slopes harden, you must immediately remove the rules. This can be done by vigorous tapping the rules. If after removing the rules it turns out that the surface of the slope protrudes beyond the wall, you need to get rid of the “influx” with a spatula or edge of the ironer.

It is advisable to do this all at once, in one day, since in a day the suppression of the influx will become more problematic.Do not be afraid to cut off an extra piece of plaster along the edge, because the corners of the slopes will be further formed by protective metal corners, which will make the edges of the slopes perfectly even.

Formation of the upper slope

For the formation of the upper slope, some skill is required, since here the landing of the rule on the plaster mortar is impossible. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the interference caused by vertical frames: in the places of their passage, the strip of plaster will be interrupted.

But to begin preparing for the plastering of the upper slopes, you still need to install the rule on the suspensions:

• Fix one suspension on each side of the window just below the expected angle, install the rule on suspensions.
• The mortar mass must not be laid over the entire area, but in parts, one section after another, waiting until the previous slope period is seized.
• If the window is 3-sectional and the plane of the arrangement of the sections occupies several different levels, you will have to display the slope surface with narrow strips of plaster, starting from the sides and stretching the remaining area after these strips have seized.
• When the entire surface of the upper slope is leveled, you can remove the rule, unscrew the screws and grind off the excess plaster.

There is another method of plastering slopes with fastening rules, where the part of the rule moving along specially mounted beacons serves as the template. But this method requires much more time (for accurately measured installation of beacons), so few use it.

Work with door slopes

Plastering door slopes is a less time-consuming process, as it takes a slightly different pattern and is not complicated by the presence of window sills and hinges. For example, you can imagine the opening not of the interior, but the front door, which is already installed in the box.

The procedure here is practically no different from work on window slopes:

• Primed surfaces, the solution is determined and the rule is established;
• The mortar mixture is applied the same way, with a margin, and the excess is removed using a template, not reaching 10 cm to the corners of the opening;
• The remaining spaces are filled with plaster after the previous layers have set;
• The final "grout" is made in the direction from top to bottom.

To form a direct type of slopes (used to design arches), 2 rules are set along the edges of the arch, taking into account the derivation of right angles. The plaster is superimposed between the rules and removed with another segment of the rule or with a trowel if it “fits” in width. At the end, the corners are decorated with metal protective profiles.

What you need to know about protective corners

For the final formation of perfectly even corners and to increase the durability of the structure, it is recommended to “sheathe” the outer corners with protective corners.

• These devices, called the "corner protective profile", are long perforated steel strips bent in length at an angle of 90 degrees. Perforation is made in the form of densely spaced holes on the steel sheet of the tape, which allows the plaster to penetrate into the “body” of the corner and ensure reliable adhesion to the adjacent surface.
• The advantage of installing an angle profile is not only its protective function. Thanks to its clearly formed right angle, it is possible to make the slope angles absolutely even, which is hardly achievable even with the high skill of experienced plasterer.
• The use of a protective corner greatly simplifies the work with drywall constructions. As for the protection, in spite of the increased flexibility of the perforated tape (with a strong effect on the corner, it can deform), the presence of a profile along the slope angles will prevent chips from plastering. It will not crumble, even if a dent appears in the corner from a strong blow.

What to look for when buying

Do-it-yourself plastering slopes are much easier with a special tool. Everything is done with your own hands and it does not take much time.

When buying the product “corner protective profiles” for the design of slope angles, you need to choose high-quality and reliable products that can last more than one year, will not endlessly lag behind the wall and bend at any touch.

Attention: Fakes resembling foil products are more than enough on the modern construction market. Therefore, the most correct way out is to order the goods from a reliable supplier who guarantees the quality of the products offered.

When everything you need is purchased and the slopes are plastered, you can proceed with the installation of protective profiles:

• Prepare a plaster or putty mixture;
• It is advisable to plant the profile on the putty, then the protrusion of the profiles from the common plane will be insignificant;
• Putty must be kneaded manually in a clean bowl to ensure uniformity of the putty mass and the safety of its quality;
• Apply the mass in a uniform layer on the inner surface of the perforated corner and attach it to the slope angle, pressing so that the rest of the putty extrudes through the perforation holes;
• Remove the putty surplus that crawled out of the perforation and put it on the profile surface, rubbing the sides;
• Check the angle with a rule, gloss over the remaining cracks and other errors - if it is a tubercle, you can tap it with a spatula or a piece of the rule, if a dent - bend it with your hands;
• After fixing all the shortcomings, you can proceed to the installation of the next corner.

Attention: At the end of the installation of profiles, the entire structure is “coated” once or twice with putty until a perfectly smooth surface is obtained.

How to plaster the slopes of the video will help to do the work consistently and correctly. In the photo you can see individual moments, the most important is not in a hurry, the instruction should be carried out sequentially and correctly.