How to plaster a wooden wall correctly
The plastering of the wooden walls inside the house is done constantly, even despite the appearance of drywall. After all, the fastening of any finishing material is associated with the installation of the frame and a decrease in the internal area.
Today we will look at how to plaster a wooden wall and everything connected with it. Also on the video in this article and photo you can see the most critical areas of work.
The content of the article
Rules for performing wood plaster
Stucco of wooden walls is not done in all cases. First of all, you need to check how much this finishing option is suitable in a particular case.
So:
- First of all, you need to determine the required application layer. To do this, we pull the line along the diagonals of the plane and look at the deviations. It will be immediately visible. For reliability, you can attach a level to the fishing line. Then everything will be visible for sure;
- If the deviation is more than 4 cm. Then DIY wall plastering wooden will not be a good option After all, it is heavy and can just crumble under its own weight;
- If the layer will be a couple see then this type of finish will be fully justified.
Attention: If you need a large amount of plaster to smooth the surface, then this will need to be done with drywall. Then the price of decoration will not be high and everything can be done with your own hands.
Plaster for wooden walls is schematically as follows:
Solution selection | Here the composition is correctly selected and after that it is prepared according to the technology. For the preparation of all compositions there are detailed articles on our website.
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Surface preparation | This is a crucial stage and without proper preparation, the coating will not be durable. |
Application of the composition | The appearance of the surface will completely depend on the quality performance of this part of the work. This is especially important for residential premises. |
The main thing in plaster
Do-it-yourself plastering of wooden walls can be done with many materials. It all depends on the environment of the plane. Any coating can be done with your own hands, but the main thing is to choose it right first. Below is an instruction on how to do this job.
Wooden walls can be plastered with various mortars, the basis of which is:
- Cement.
- Lime.
- Gypsum.
Attention: All binders used must comply with the basic requirements of GOST and Technical Specifications (TU).
So:
- If lime is used as a binder, then it must be repaid appropriately and aged for one month in pits or tanks for slaking. Otherwise, the plaster will “shoot” due to the fact that individual particles will remain unredeemed and will be extinguished on the plastered wall.
- In the process of extinguishing, a gas is formed, which will “shoot” lime particles along with the plaster. To prepare the solution, fine sand is used, with grains no more than 1.2 mm. To have a warmer plaster mortar, slag sand obtained from blast furnace slag should be used.
- To apply the finishing plaster layer, cleaner river sand is used. Such sand does not have natural pigments and impurities, which means that there will be no streaks on the surface of the plastered walls, and the surface will have a uniform structure.
- When plastering walls in rooms where there will be no increased humidity, you can use lime-gypsum mortars. At the same time, it should be remembered that gypsum mixtures quickly set and they must be added inhibitors of chemical processes. They can be: carpentry glue, borax, alum, etc.
- Such a solution is prepared in the following ratio: one part of gypsum, one part of lime and two parts of sand. The mixture is thoroughly mixed with a gradual addition of water until the consistency of thick sour cream.
- In order not to bother much, you can go to a hardware store and buy ready-made gypsum plaster (see Dry plaster gypsum mixture: features of use), especially since it already contains additives that slow down the setting process.
Preparation of wooden surfaces
The wooden surface must be clean and free from visible impurities, such as stains of oils, or bitumen. If the surface is quite smooth, then it is necessary to make incisions on it, which contribute to better fastening of the plaster layer.
- As an additional measure, a shingle is printed on a wooden surface, in increments of about 50 mm. The shingle is packed crosswise, in two layers, at an angle of 45 degrees to the base of the wall. 60 mm long nails are used to secure the shingles. At the places of intersection of the shanks, nails are driven into the places of intersection, nailing two strips at once.
- The shingle is packed from top to bottom, with a transition to the ceiling. When building the strips, a gap of about 5 mm is left between them, since after applying the plaster it will begin to swell. If the ends of the shingles touch each other, then it will puff, and cracks will appear on the plaster.
- In the places where wooden walls come in contact with walls made of other materials, but requiring plastering, a metal mesh is stuffed, with mesh sizes of about 40 mm. The mesh is attached to the surface with nails about 100 mm long.
Solution technology
Much depends on how responsible the premises are:
- If this is a living room, then the technology may be one, but if it is a utility room, then the plastering technology may be slightly different.
- In rooms that are not residential, you can do two layers: a spray layer and a primer layer. If this is a bedroom, hall, hallway, then you can not do without a finish layer. It is from the last, finishing layer that the quality of the plaster depends. It all depends on the design work, as well as on the "advancement" of the individual developer.
High-quality plaster also depends on other factors:
- You can apply all three layers, but not get as a result of a flat surface. High-quality plaster is always performed only on beacons, which you can set yourself, using quick-setting mortar or buying ready-made beacons in a hardware store.
- Lighthouses are displayed absolutely exactly vertically and horizontally (see Installation of beacons for plaster without problems) To control the vertical position, the building level and a long rail are used, or two in one - the rule.
- Lighthouses begin to expose from opposite sides of the wall, after which a rope is pulled between them, which will serve as a beacon for controlling horizontal evenness. After that, intermediate beacons are installed. The installation step can be arbitrary, but not less than 5 beacons on each wall. After finishing the plastering, all the beacons are removed.
- After installation of the beacons is completed, the first layer is applied - spray, the task of which is to fill the free space between the shingles and smooth out rough irregularities. The thickness of the first layer should be within 9 mm, but given that this is a wooden surface with shingles, the thickness of the first layer can reach 12 mm.
- The second layer of plaster, called "soil", is applied to the dried up previous layer. If lime-gypsum mortar is used, then the thickness of this layer should be within 7 mm, and if cement mortar is used, then its thickness should not exceed 5 mm.
- The total thickness of the plaster, in the usual application in two layers, should be within 12 mm. The same plaster, but improved should not be thicker than 15 mm, and plaster with a finish layer should not be thicker than 20 mm.
Caution: This limitation is due to the fact that the wooden structure absorbs part of the moisture, and the other part evaporates. If the layer is too large, then all the moisture will not be able to leave the wooden base, and it can cause decay, as a result of which the wooden wall will quickly lose its load-bearing characteristics.
- Before applying the next layer, you need to wait for it to dry out, but not dry out, otherwise the next layer may not be fixed on the previous one. If it is still damp, then it is likely that the next layer, during application, may fall off with the previous one.
- All layers except the first should be well compacted, especially for the layer after which there is already a finishing layer. The penultimate layer should also be carefully aligned so that there are no sagging, tubercles, etc.
- The finish layer, or “cover”, as a rule, has a thickness of not more than 2 mm. This layer is brought especially carefully, and the solution for it must be prepared separately. It should contain only small fractions of sand, and subsequently, after thorough mixing, should not have any lumps. If the final solution, before the application process, began to set, then it is better to throw it away and prepare a new one.
- In the case of a long break before applying the finish layer, when the previous layer had time to dry well, it should be moistened with water and notched with a spatula.
- So that in the process of plastering the wall turns out to be even, a rule or an even wooden lath is applied to it. In the event of irregularities, they are eliminated: the mounds are cleaned, and the depressions are closed with the same solution.
- The most important thing is to subsequently arrange the proper drying of the plastered surfaces. The final result will depend on this. During the drying process, it is not recommended to subject the surfaces to shocks or vibrations, and the room should be maintained at an appropriate temperature with permanent ventilation. The plaster should be dried in natural conditions for at least 3 days, after which the drying process can be activated.
After the plaster surfaces have completely dried, you can proceed to further work, including drilling and percussion.
- In conclusion, I want to say that, nevertheless, such a technology was relevant 50 years ago, but now completely different methods and techniques for finishing wooden rooms come in its place. Currently, few are engaged in such "wet" work on wooden surfaces, and not only on wooden.
- To close wooden surfaces, you can successfully use drywall systems: simple, quick and accurate.
- If we take into account that a conventional wooden beam is replaced by a profiled one, then it makes sense not to resort to finishing the internal surfaces at all, but to leave everything as it is. In this case, we get a retro-style room with an unsurpassed appearance, while the housing does not lose its main characteristics.
How to plaster a wooden wall you now know and can do. The main thing is not in a hurry and choose the right solution. After that, he will systematically begin work. Plastering wooden walls with your own hands video will help you do everything efficiently.