Video plastering walls without beacons: how to do it yourself

Gusevsky Andrey Anatolyevich

Stucco walls without beacons video

How to plaster without lighthouses is of interest to many, because not everyone understands how to make a landmark and bring the plane to zero. In this article, we will consider the question of how to plaster walls without lighthouses and at the same time do everything in high quality. You will also be presented with photos and videos in this article according to the rules of work and you can do everything yourself, then the final price will be much lower.

What is plaster

Stucco without lighthouses is not as easy a question as it seems, and therefore it is immediately divided into three other questions: what is the finished plaster, what is the mixture for such work, and what are the plaster works themselves. The questions will be answered in order.

Plaster as a cladding may already be a fully prepared finish, and also serve as the basis for painting, cladding, wallpapering (see.Wall decoration in wallpaper in the correct execution) or future cladding.

Depending on their purpose, they are classified into several others:

Essential equipment for work

I would like to warn you right away that the most ordinary “gentleman's set”, that is, inexpensive tools at affordable prices, will serve as a fine example.

Firstly, to plaster the surface of the wall without existing beacons, we need this:

• Large bowl for preparing and stirring the solution. The word "large" means that it would fit at least 4 buckets of the finished mixture.

Attention: If you did not find a suitable vessel for stirring the solution, then it is easy to do it yourself, because this will not require special efforts and knowledge. It will take one sheet of simple galvanization, 4 clean boards and screws. On the sheet we measure out a small corner-rectangle, we remove all unnecessary with a self-tapping screw. Then we wrap the edges of the sheet upwards by 10-20 cm and fasten the boards to them - this, as you know, is the sides of the future trough. It is convenient to use such dishes in the future.

• Two types of shovels: common shovel and American type shovel. For ease of action, you can use ordinary choppers from the garden, and not just the usual shovels we are used to. These choppers greatly facilitate the work process. This also affects the quality of the product, since solid lumps will not be present in the solution, while with a shovel it is more difficult to achieve an ideal homogeneous mass.
• Trowel, plaster bucket and a pair of roomy buckets.
• A pair of polystyrene graters for mashing the surface. If the plaster will be made without guides, then we must try to get graters longer and more voluminous. Their price will not exceed the price of ordinary such graters, but the finished plane, in this way, will turn out to be much more beautiful and even.

Start plastering

The first step is to prepare a place for work. It’s just that you won’t be able to do anything on a stool or ladder. If you need plastering a large plane, then it is better to immediately purchase or rent scaffolding.

Attention: Be sure to remember that at the end of the next stage of work, all tools must be cleaned of dirt and dust in clean water. Never use the dirty water left over from washing tools to knead the future mixture, because it is no longer suitable for action. It must be isolated in the pit, but not in the sink, since debris can clog in the sewer.

Surface preparation

The process of preparing the surface for plaster has three stages:

• Complete surface cleaning.
• Recovery of small nuances.
• Creation of a surface ready for plaster.

Attention: If you had wallpaper hanging on the wall, then cleaning should be done with special washes for old wallpapers. It is applied with a large brush, after sufficient time to hold this coating is removed with a spatula.

• So that you can easily remove old plaster it should be moistened with water of moderate temperature and kept for some time. The exposure rule for wetted plaster is a tightly closed room, and removal is done with a spatula with a large area, so that it is easy to remove large layers.
• To close up small cracks and defects, a gypsum primer is applied. Prepare it, rubbing it with a large spatula twice, first in one direction, then in the other. Cracks that are more than 2 cm, as well as defects in skirting boards, are corrected with a special thixotropic mixture.
• Known cracks in the skirting boards must be carefully repaired, as they will cause the penetration of fungus or other bacteria on a new surface.
• To form an excellent surface for plastering, you need to use masonry seams, as well as rustics and notches, but with further work done with the mixture made, it is necessary to process the brick surface. If your mixture does not need a wall notch, then the instructions will definitely write about it, but, remember that a notch in any situation will not cause any harm.
• Cooked rustics and seams are selected using a conventional drill. Rusts are knocked out to a concrete depth, and the seams go up to 10 mm deep. After this, the seams should be left alone, but in rusty you still need to attach a PVA sickle, and wipe it with plaster as a defect.
• The notch of the walls occurs due to the pickaxe, a sharp hammer or an ax. The notch is not made too deep, but the density should not be less than 900 square meters for concrete walls. And for brick coating, only 250 square meters are used (after 5-7 centimeters).
• Primer treatment (seeWhy do we need a primer: technological nuances of finishing work) after work is necessary for concrete walls. Betonocontact primers are of the best quality, and foam concrete walls can already be treated with a deep penetration of the primer for concrete materials.Any dirty traces are treated with whiteness, so that subsequently no fungus forms on the walls, if necessary, degrease the surface with grass.

Spray

Work done on self-made mixtures further requires a mandatory spray. What is plaster spray? This is the process of throwing particles of plaster on the surface of the base in order to give it a relief that is able to hold the primer. The spray consists of stages: a part of the solution is applied with a trowel, then in parts they are taken onto the brush and thrown to the surface.

• The lump that has appeared should form in a slightly convex way, the height of which is up to 7 mm with protruding edges. If the edges are raised or stick off, then the adhesion process has failed. Two reasons indicate this: poor composition of the solution or poor surface. The solution should not be too greasy or too thin.
• The area of ​​the spray lumps is usually from 0.5 to 1.0 of the total surface area. Above we described the composition of the solution, and spray the same way as they apply the primer.
• It is required to hold the surface for some time after spraying, but do not allow the solution to solidify strongly. The test is carried out by pressing a finger, if the surface is wet and does not give in to finger pressure, then this is normal. Therefore, spray is applied in small areas, and not completely on the surface, so as not to introduce after the primer onto the frozen spray.

Grinding and grinding

Above, we already talk about the cover. The coating is applied with a thin layer of 1-2 mm, and before solidification is already polished to complete smoothness.

• At first they wipe it clockwise, and then to remove these traces of these movements, they grout them in a razvrachka, also along and across. The falcon will help bring the surface to perfect smoothness without any roughness.
• In order to get a glare, use lime or gypsum coatings, but only if the sand in the mixture is the smallest.
• Immediately apply the solution and drop it on the plane. After that, we wait a bit and do the alignment. The movements should be uniform and without much effort.

Corners and slopes

To process the internal corners of walls, usually plasterers use a special spatula for corners.

The use of perforated tape

• To bring them to evenness, spend along the lighthouses a small segment of plastic with a diameter of 50-100 mm. When plastic pipes were not yet available, old methods were used - bottles, steel pipes.
• Slopes from doors and windows are treated with a wooden lath with the required area. To clean the surface, also spend the pipe.

Attention: Also, for plastering the outer and inner corners, a special perforated tape is also used. This will allow you to make a perfectly flat angle.

Stucco on wooden surfaces

Video wall plastering without beacons will help you get the job done right. The solution just doesn’t stick to the tree, it must be kept.

All work is done as follows:

Mount the shingles on the wall

• Upholstery for wooden coatings is carried out with felt, and the felt, in turn, is processed with glassine, otherwise small fibers will not allow the stucco to stick to the surface. After knocking shingles. Shingles are very narrow plaster boards.
• Ideal shingles are thin and dry, otherwise the nails inserted into them will lead to cracks in the material. Drani stucco is not considered the highest quality, because nails often give rust, and this is a sign of instability.
• For a tree, a clay composition is best. It fastens most qualitatively and serves for a long time. Other additives can also be applied to clay. It can be cement or alabaster. It all depends on what you want to get in the end.

How to plaster a rotband (see Rothband plaster - the best gypsum mixture for leveling walls and ceilings) without lighthouses and other convoys you now know.There is no need to rush and you need to do everything carefully. The instruction will help you not to miss anything and foresee everything. Plaster without beacons video will clearly show the entire progress of the work.