Colored lining in the interior
A lining board, as a finishing material, is rarely used in apartments - unless, it is sheathed with balconies and loggias. Even if the design of the rooms involves wood decoration of one wall, they often use plank, which can be mounted with a gap, or a floor board, since it does not have a chamfer. But in the interior of private houses: urban, and especially suburban, painted lining looks quite harmonious, and we will discuss this design option of the premises in this article.
Our instructions will help those who want to finish the painted clapboard in the interior with their own hands, but do not know how to do it right.
The content of the article
What types of lining are suitable for residential interiors
On sale you can see at least five types of profile boards with tongue-and-groove connection, which we are all used to call lining, and some of them you can see in the photo below. In addition to the presented types of profiles, there is also a “landhouse” having a curly surface, and an “American” whose profile is an elongated triangle. These are purely facade options (see Exterior wall paneling: choose the best), so talking about them now makes no sense.
In addition, the board varies in size, and, of course, in grades. The type of profile and the size of the material is selected, depending on where it will be installed. As for the quality, only the highest grade, which is called "Extra", should be taken for interior decoration.
The kind of wood also matters. For the decoration of residential premises do not use material from conifers, as it emits tar, which will ruin your finish. Pine or spruce is suitable only for the inner lining of the bath.
How to choose the right board
Let's return to the options for the cross sections of the board. Most often, lining is finished with ceilings, but not every profile is suitable for this purpose.
Imitations of logs and beams immediately disappear - these are options for walls, and even then, depending on what design is supposed to be implemented. If you want a house built from foam blocks to look like a wooden one, using a block house or imitation timber can solve this problem without any problems.
So:
- A board with a flat surface looks better on the ceiling, especially when the room is not very tall. On an ordinary horizontal ceiling, a wide lining looks better. If the ceiling has several planes, as is the case in the attics, then a narrow board is much better for sheathing - especially if it is painted in different colors, as is done in the example below.
- In general, the colored lining in the interior of the living room looks more than harmonious. The natural color scheme of wood, of course, is very pleasing to the eye, but if it is a flat plane and the same tone, the finish loses its charm and becomes monotonous. Dosed accents, contrasting shades, as well as changing the direction of installation of the board, help to get away from this effect.
- When it comes to ceilings, the ability to break this monotony with transversely mounted bars is very helpful here. Although, in many private houses with beam ceilings, it is possible to use load-bearing beams in the design of the ceiling. To implement this design, it is also better to use a narrow board.
- But on the walls, it should be wider, at least 20 cm. The lining elements of such a width look most harmonious - and therefore many other wall materials (plastic panels, MDF) are produced in the same size.
A lining imitating a beam or a log is usually placed horizontally so that the imitation of the log house is complete. A board with other types of sections: softline, calm, eurolining - can be positioned as you like.
The difference between these profiles is only in the configuration and the number of grooves and chamfers, the structure of the tongue-and-groove joint. Their front surface will not be too different - in any case, if we compare among themselves the material of the same class.
Secrets of board plating
The quality of the material affects, of course, the final result, but it still needs to be mounted correctly. First of all, the board should be allowed to lie down for at least two days in the room where the decoration will be made, after which it must immediately be processed with a fire-protective composition.
- In addition, he makes the wood pattern more expressive, which will be very useful if you decide not to paint over the covering with opaque paint, but use, for example, transparent azure. It is necessary to apply a protective composition carefully, not forgetting also about the ends and grooves.
- While the impregnation dries, you can start preparing the surfaces for cladding. Of course, stripping them to the ground is not necessary - unless the old plaster is crumbling. But if somewhere there are cracks, crevices, sagging - and other troubles, they need to be eliminated.
- In general, wood does not like drafts, so it is better to lay insulation in the lining. In any case, this must be done on the outer walls, ceilings, located under the attic, in the attics. You can mount the lining both on an aluminum profile and on a wooden crate.
The insulation design may include both a profile and a rail. We will not go into these details now to pay more attention to the installation of the board itself and its finishing. If you decide to do self-casing and its decor, be sure to watch the video in this article.
Installing the crate and fixing the board
We will briefly discuss the installation of lining, taking as a basis the option on a wooden frame. For the crate, a rail with a cross section of 30 * 40 mm will be required, which also must be treated in advance with protective impregnation.
So:
- Set the frame elements in the direction perpendicular to the position of the board. This means that if the cladding elements are arranged vertically, then the crate belts should be installed horizontally.
- The most difficult thing is to bring the frame into a single plane, since absolutely straight walls do not exist in principle. To determine the degree of surface roughness, they are suspended and measured with a level. If the deviations do not exceed 5-7 mm, consider yourself lucky - such insignificant depressions can be compensated for by under-bars.
- You need to start by defining the most prominent point, install a rail on it that will play the role of a guide, and pull it from it and fix it on the nail with a fishing line that you can navigate in the future.
- The distance between the slats usually does not exceed 60 cm. If you lay a heater between them, then the step between the crate belts is determined based on its width - maybe it will not be 60, but 50 cm. But in this case, the frame is not made of rail , and from a bar, the cross section of which should take into account the thickness of the material.
- If the walls are very uneven, then there are only two exits: pre-align the wall with the plaster method, or install the crate on direct suspensions. With their help, it is possible to level the crate plane without any problems.Since the price of plaster is higher, the owners usually prefer the option with suspensions.
- The lining is fixed to the crate in an open way - with the help of clamps. Self-tapping screws or nails are used only for fixing the first and last boards. If in order, it looks like this. Sheathing begins from the wall, positioning the first board so that its tongue looks into a corner - it is he who is screwed with a screw to the bar.
On the opposite side, clamps are installed, which, going into the groove on the edge of the lining, firmly hold it. After all the clamps are screwed, a second board is installed. Her tongue is brought into the groove of the previous one, and on the other hand, hidden fastening is carried out in the same way. As you can see, everything is pretty prosaic.
Coated surface painting
Almost any kind of paint is suitable for painting wood - including water-dispersion paints, which paint plaster surfaces. But they have a high hiding power, and under such a layer the drawing of the tree is no longer visible.
- If you want to enjoy the natural texture of wood, use transparent paints specially designed for it. These are all kinds of stains, impregnations, glazing compositions, varnishes, which can be either completely transparent or slightly tinted.
- For example, acrylic decorative azure, which is also called color protection for wood, can be used not only as an intermediate coating applied before painting the surface. It is also a full-fledged topcoat, as it decorates the casing and protects it from unwanted effects.
Advice! It is always better to paint a tree manually - there are less streaks and lower paint consumption. Before applying, the composition must be mixed well, otherwise the shade may turn out to be uneven. There should not be bold layers - it is better, if necessary, to paint the wall not in two, but in three layers, but thinly.
- Start painting work from an inconspicuous place, with a small touch - suddenly the shade of paint will not be the same as you imagined. As already mentioned, soil compositions can have a shade, but if you use a transparent version, it can also be tinted.
- In general, not all compositions can be tinted - such a possibility, as a rule, is specified in the manufacturer's instructions. By the way, to paint the lining, you can use two shades of paint, and alternate them through one or two boards. In the interior, this finish option looks great, eliminating the very monotony that was mentioned at the beginning of the article.
Semi-matt paints are an ideal solution for painting lining - they allow you to hide the wood texture, but leave a relief on the surface. Well, if you want to focus on one wall, and decorate wood, for example, antique, you need to use patina compositions. An example of such a finish you can see in the photo above.
